Russian Cities: Elista
Bhuddist Elista, Capitol of the Tiny Republic of Kalmykia
The Russian steppe city of Elista is a fascinating mix of cultures, now graced with a Tibetan Bhuddist temple and experiencing a cultural rebirth.
Elista is the capitol of Kalmykia, an ethnic republic within the Russian Federation and the only Bhuddist nation in Europe. After having their culture repressed for decades, the Kalmyks are currently experiencing a cultural revival, and seeking a connection, after years of state-enforced athiesm, with their Lamaist traditions. The Golden Abode, the massive Tibetan Temple dominating the center of Elista is a symbol of the spiritual revival of the Kalmyk people.
The world seems far away here the city of Elista, a remote town of just over 250,000 on the Russian Steppe, in the often forgotten Republic of Kalmykia. Reached by a tiny airport, this remote Russian city is well worth a stopover for the more advenurous tourist. The Kalmyks have recently been undergoing a quiet revolution, reviving traditions that were almost destroyed under communism, and recovering from a strange and tragic history that nearly destroyed them.
Elista at first seems much like any other Russian city, with rows of blocky apartment buildings along the road, and an unwelcoming half-abandoned factories. But the apartment buildings are painted in pastel colors. And here and there one sees the gleaming lacquered roof of a pagoda—a sight that seems out of place among the concrete cubes of the outer city.
The Kalmyks, descendants of theMongol hordes, arrived in this region under a different name—the Oirat—in 1630, having traveled from Siberia in search of better pasture lands for their animals. They settled along the Volga and Don rivers. Russia initially tolerated the Oirat presence on their land. A treaty was signed granting the Oirat autonomy in exchange for its defense of the Russian empire against tribes further to the South. But eventually, as the Russians grew stronger, they put more and more pressure on the nomadic Oirat.
200,000 Oirat, in 1771, under the leadership of Uzbashi Khan, decided to return home by traveling directly across the Central Asian deserts. Along the way many were attacked and killed by Kazakhs and Kirghiz, their historical enemies, and many more died of starvation and disease. Eventually, 96,000 of the tribe reached the safety of Lake Balkhash in Western China, their historical homeland. Those Oirat that remained behind were called the Kalmyk, meaning “remainders."
In the center of modern Elista is a multi-leveled red pagoda, surrounded by fountains. At its center is a metal prayer wheel decorated with Sanskrit writing. This holy wheel has come all the way from Tibet, and contains 75 million written mantras, filling it with energy. Now the wheel constantly turns as a steady stream of Kalmyks mount the stairs. The pagoda stands where Lenin used to be, his statue having been politely moved to the edge of the square. The Kalmkys seem careful to acknowledge all aspects of their past.
The leafy boulevards of the town are dotted with small statues of Kalmyk myths and legends. Along the boulevard of heroes there are monuments commemorating the author of The Dhangar, a series of songs celebrating the heroism of a mythical Kalmyk knight, and then a Soviet-era monument to the Kalmyk dead of World War Two and Afghanistan. The total impression is of a history of many combined, unlike elements.
One major event, commemorated by a powerful monument at the edge of the city, looms among all others: in 1943, immediately following the Soviet victory at the battle of Stalingrad, thousands of trucks arrived in Elista and all other cities of the Republic of Kalmykia. In one evening, troops and police rounded up every man, woman, and child, and the entire nation, including many of its men who had fought bravely at the front in the Red Army, was deported to Siberia.
In 1957, after being “rehabilitated” by Nikita Khrushchev, what remained of the Kalmyk nation was allowed to return home from Siberia. Over one third of them had perished in unheated, freezing cattle cars en route to their exile, and shortly afterwards. Every Kalmyk family lost many of its members, and the damage done to language and culture may be irreparable. However, the impression one gets from modern-day Kalmykia is not one of bitterness, but of remembrance, endurance, and cultural revival.
Where to Stay: The Beliy Lotos (White Lotus) is a pleasant, centrally located hotel with modern facilities. Phone (84722) 5-40-70 another option is the Elista, which is cheaper, but also less comfortable. It is, however, right across from the main square of Elista.
Where to Eat: For a simple meal, try Leka-Pizza, with 17 varieties of Pizza to choose from. (Ulitsa Gorkogo, 25). They also deliver, for a price (84722) 5-55-19. For traditional cuisine, most restaurants downtown offer Kalmyk standards. The Beregi (Kalmyk dumplings) are excellent.
What to See: The Pagoda on Lenin Square, Chess City (Just outside of Elista on the Steppe, a small town devoted entirely to Chess) and the Burkhan Bakshin Altan Sume, a gorgeous temple complex about 10 minutes’ walk from the center of the city. Also take a walk along the Alley of Heroes, stopping to admire various monuments to Kalmyk history along the way.
Getting There: Try Eltur for guides (84722) 5-27-64. For tickets, try Interpares (Moscow Petrovka 27 495-234-0334)
