Life on the Trans-Siberian Railway
From Basic Needs to Passing the Time on this Famous Train Ride.
What can be expected once on board a Trans-Siberian train? This article deals with food, washing, accomodations, security and some general advice for travellers.
Most tourists on the Trans-Siberian railway will stock up on cereal bars and tetra packs from home but once these are exhausted it’s time to sample Russian fare. There are two main options. Many trains have a buffet car though not all but it may keep unpredictable hours and an equally unpredictable menu. Perhaps the best source of food are the locals who frequently board the train at stops or set up stalls to sell delicious home-cooked foods, bottled water and beer for just a few roubles. Boiled eggs, potatoes and stuffed breads are the norm as well as many pre-packed foods but watch the sell-by dates.
A foreign traveller on the Trans-Siberian railway is unlikely to go hungry since Russian curiosity and hospitality will ensure offers to share in picnics.
All carriages have a samovar – a hot water urn – positioned near the steward’s cabin. This free water is for teas and pot noodles which are popular with domestic travellers and another cheap option. A flask is often provided in compartments which can be replenished as needed.
There are no showers on the train but at least one toilet in each carriage with a small metal sink and mirror for washing. Water and flushing is operated by a rubber foot pedal – sometimes hard work but great for inactive calves!
Bedding is provided by the steward or stewardess (provodnik/provodnitsa) upon boarding the train. This includes sheets as well as a blanket so a sleeping bag is usually unnecessary from spring to Autumn. Berths are fairly comfortable and well-sized for an average person. Outside of 1st class a middle or top bunk is preferable for privacy as bottom bunks are generally regarded as communal areas during the day time.
Stewards can be useful friends on long journeys as they often stock snacks and basic toiletries in their own cabins.
Siberia, though famously cold, can be balmy as late as October. Carriages are well heated and controlled by the steward who maintains a coal boiler that also heats the samovar. It can even be stuffy on the train since a near pathological fear of the cold means that Russians will never open a window even in the mildest weather.
For security reasons also, a top bunk is desirable. Luggage can be stored either underneath lower bunks or in a recess above the door which is accessible only from high up. As with any travel, valuables should be kept to a minimum and kept on the person. A money belt for example is ideal. At night-time a small bag or belt (if not worn) can be kept near the head or inside a pillowcase. First and second class cabins have lockable doors but third class is open and more communal. A good way to achieve peace of mind is to make friends with travel companions who will usually be glad to keep an eye on valuables during bathroom trips.
Once necessities are taken care of passing the time on a multiple day train ride should not be a problem. Making the most of cultural opportunities is important. Making friends is easy and trying to pick up or practice a little Russian is great fun - it’s even possible to master Cyrillic in a few days. It’s also a good time to catch up on reading but it would be a shame to miss the views of Siberia as they roll by – forests of silver-birch, wide rivers and endless grasslands are breath-taking.
